Life surfing

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Life surfing

The term “surfing the net” often comes up in discussions of search engines and web-based technologies. The origin of this term is said to be when Jean Armour Polly, who worked for an Internet service provider, used the expression “surfing the Internet” in an article for a magazine in 1992. There are many theories, such as “surfing the Internet” was first used by Jean Armour Polly in an article for a magazine, or the “Web” in “World Wide Web” was multiplied by “wave” which has a similar sense of the word.

In the case of search engines, the term “surfing” is used to describe following hyperlinks one after another, and the image seems to be a little different from that of actual surfing.

In actual surfing, you slide down the slope formed by waves using a board called a surfboard, and the mechanism of the waves that you are riding is as follows.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

When the wind blows on the surface of the sea, friction occurs between the sea surface and the air, and the air moves the seawater, creating ripples.

When the wind stops, the ripples disappear, but if the wind continues to blow, they develop into “wind waves,” and

As the water depth becomes shallower, the waves are subjected to friction from the seafloor, and the speed near the seafloor becomes slower, and there is a speed difference with the water surface. As the waves get closer to land, the difference in speed becomes greater, and the waves become pinched and “break.

Of the waves that are generated in a certain cycle and reach land, many are so-called “damper” waves that break suddenly at the edge of the wave. It is difficult to surf such waves, and the real fun is limited to the slow-breaking “shouldered” waves. Surfers waiting for waves will have to wait on the water for several minutes or even longer to catch them, and it is not like “riding from wave to wave”.

To find a good position to wait for a wave, you need to understand the mechanism of wave formation and consider the condition of the sea bed, wind and waves. For this reason, surfers read weather maps, tide information, and do things like weather forecasters.

Once you reach the point where you can successfully catch the wave, the next step is to synchronize with the wave, which is called “paddling”. The first thing to do is to look at the wave coming from offshore to land, and imagine how you will glide, predicting whether the collapse will be to the right or left, and whether the slope will be steep or loose. Next, as you change direction to where you think the wave will be strongest, accelerate your board to synchronize with the wave by grabbing the seawater and rotating your arms to match the speed of the wave. If you can synchronize well, you have caught the wave.

Once you have caught the wave, the surfboard will start to move with the wave. Finally, you stand on the board (take off) and start sliding on the wave. The sensation of sliding on the waves is difficult to describe in words, but it is a feeling that many people become addicted to.

After the take off, if the wave is a “hunched” shape that breaks slowly, you can enjoy it for a while. You can drop to the bottom or back to the top, accelerate near the breaking zone, brake and stay on top of the wave, and enjoy the reward of catching a wave well.

I think the key to improving your surfing skills is to spend as much time as possible in the ocean and face as many waves as possible. I read a quote from a surfer in a magazine that said, “You don’t know anything unless you experience it. This is similar to the Buddhist concept of “cold-warmth self-knowledge” and the Zen concept of “Fu-ryu dorya furyu,” or the idea that “the place where the wind does not blow is also the place where the wind blows. It is the basis of everything that we do, to use our knowledge of the past, to perform the kata on the spot, and to enjoy the fluctuation of the kata.