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Court Inside: What the California Sea Taught Me
In the previous article, we discussed Yoshio Kataoka’s surfing novel/essay. This time, we will discuss “Court Inside: What the California Ocean Taught Me,” a memoir by Daniel Duane, which is currently out of print in Japanese translation.The title of the English version is “Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast“, and it seems to be available in pay-per-view.
It is about a man who dropped out of society and lived on the coast of Santa Cruz, California. The essay consists of 26 chapters about his life in the fall, winter, and spring. In the essay, he talks about the waves of Santa Cruz, the holy land of California surfers, his interactions with the locals, sharks, storms, and the Big Web, along with drawings of California’s nature.
Waiting for good waves for hours in freezing water and even colder air is what winter surfing is all about. There is surfing in the fall, when the hustle and bustle of summer is over and the air is cooler. And then there is spring surfing, when you can feel the warm sunshine in the still cold water. Duane’s expressive writing will make people who have never seen the ocean or ridden a wave feel many things.
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